Words by Salma Sarah Benamar

Fräulein Talents: Melitta Baumeister

Melitta Baumeister’s work lives in the spaces where humor, sculpture, and fashion collide. Every collection tells a story of experimentation: draped fabrics, silicone surfaces, everyday objects reimagined as garments. From her early days at Parsons to her influential collaborations in New York, she has forged an independent path that challenges expectations while celebrating movement, inclusivity, and a mischievous sense of fun. Her approach is both playful and thoughtful, exploring how shape, texture, and proportion can reshape the relationship between body and garment. She also reflects on the collaborative energy with her team, which is central to the identity of her brand. Here, she talks about how the city, her creative community, and the experimental spirit of her work continue to guide her vision and fuel her designs.

You moved to New York for your Master’s. How did it come about that you stayed there - was it a planned decision or more of a spontaneous response to an opportunity?

New York is entirely thanks to Shelley Fox, the director of the Fashion and Society Master’s program at Parsons at the time. While building the course, she visited academies worldwide in search of talent for the first generations. She was also the one who secured a full scholarship for me, which made it possible to even consider taking this crazy leap in the first place.

What does New York mean for your creative work and the positioning of your label?

New York is a very special beast. It’s an incredibly vibrant and inspiring universe, but also a demanding and draining place. I trust no one who loves NYC unconditionally — it’s a city you have to fight for, and the struggle never really ends. For the brand, it was initially less about New York fashion or glamour and more about the well-preserved infrastructure around the Garment District. Having direct access to a wide range of fabrics, producers, and everything needed to turn a garment into reality was crucial in enabling the brand to grow slowly and organically.

Your designs have a very distinctive signature. Does this emerge spontaneously in the process, or from pre-conceived ideas?

The process is always the starting point and what constantly drives me. Our work is sculptural, draping directly on the body with fabric. This is the foundation of our sculptural signature. The atmosphere of the brand evolves in close dialogue with my partner and art director, Michal Plata, who is involved in every step of the brand and its communication.

Oversized silhouettes and unusual proportions characterize many of your collections. What draws you to this playful approach to form?

Working sculpturally is in our nature – shape, volume, and the interaction with the body. Exploring new silhouettes is what drives us. For me, the appeal lies in this experimental gaze at the body – it’s also where fashion’s greatest power lies. Conceptually, the idea of volume is exciting beyond the purely visual. “You bring the body, we bring the shape.” This, to me, represents the future of fashion. Inclusivity and diversity. Clothing shouldn’t shame you because your body changes or you’re not feeling your best. We shouldn’t work for the clothing; the clothing should work for us. I think this idea has been largely neglected in recent decades, largely due to a rigid, Western-centric ideal of beauty.

At what point does fashion become a work of art for you, and when does wearability take a backseat?

Fashion, art, and wearability are all terms that define and limit something that, in a modern world, shouldn’t be confined. Art, fashion, and other design disciplines belong fully to a creative and critical life. The more integrated and connected they are, the better. Interdisciplinary approaches are what the future needs.

In your work, everyday objects like bananas or piercings appear, and materials like silicone replace fabric. What fascinates you about transforming ordinary objects into fashion pieces?

I’ve always been fascinated by the idea of making clothing in ways other than sewing. Casting a garment or stamping it like a car part particularly captivated me at the beginning of the brand. Everyday objects are always symbols of daily life. While fashion is often seen as an escape from reality, for me it’s a vehicle to make the everyday surreal, sublime, and simply better — not to turn away from it. Humor often plays a role in the choice of objects.

Humor is clearly present in your designs. What role does it play, and how do you use these ironic twists?

Humor is essential to the brand. High-end fashion often plays with sophistication and intimidation — that feeling of belonging to an exclusive club, this imposed coolness. For me, humor is clever, inclusive, and active. That’s where real coolness comes from.

Nike was not only a partner in your last show but was conceptually integrated — with training equipment, choreography, and sports references. How did this collaboration come about, and how does it influence future projects?

That was the beginning of a collaboration that has grown into a multi-year project, continuing our unconventional approach to presenting clothing and ideas. In September, we officially launched the collaboration with a complex event somewhere between performance art, immersive theater, and surreal storytelling. We told the story and concept “Run Like No One is Watching” through a sequence of rooms with actors, athletes, models, and dancers, allowing participants to step into the mind of our MB Woman and then beyond, into the MB world. The documentation of the event will be released gradually over the coming months. Broadly, sports and movement play a major role in my life and creativity. Partnering with Nike to explore the world of sport in a credible and inventive way has been particularly exciting.

How is your German heritage perceived in the U.S. — do you feel fully recognized after winning the CFDA Fashion Fund?

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, as well as the National Design Award from the Cooper Hewitt/Smithsonian, were pivotal in finally feeling seen and acknowledged. It’s been a long journey! Our approach to design, our ethos, and running the brand as a business still feel very German, especially in the context of NYC.

Why do you think there is less coverage of your success in Germany compared to New York?

I have no clear answer. It could be that we don’t promote our work loudly; we prefer to spend our time in the studio working on the next project. That said, I always appreciate any article or contact that connects us to Germany and the German-speaking world — especially since much of our foundation and values come from our German training, and they remain central to us.

How do you handle situations where financial requirements collide with your creative vision?

With the understanding and acceptance that it is never easy to stay true to oneself and create genuinely creative work. Independence, both financial and creative, has been a core value we’ve defended for over eleven years with considerable effort. It’s the foundation of our work. In today’s world, there’s hardly any other way to develop an independent, idealistic, and perhaps unconventional voice.

You produce locally in New York, which comes with higher costs. How does sustainability shape your design decisions?

For eight of the eleven years of the brand, the Garment District was our production site — made in New York City, just two blocks from Times Square. It was a truly magical and almost unreal place. As the brand grew and technical demands increased, coupled with the city’s neglect of the Garment District for decades, we reluctantly moved production away. Design, pattern-making, and sample sewing, however, remain in our Brooklyn studio.

Looking back, was there a decision that was particularly formative, which you would make differently today?

Je ne regrette rien!

What strategic decisions are you currently facing that could shape the future of your label?

The world constantly brings new challenges, and responding without losing focus is a full-time job. I’m happy with slow but steady growth. I want the brand to remain independent and exciting, and for my team to be safe and happy. Most well-meaning strategic advice often doesn’t apply to a brand like ours. What remains is to take one step at a time and learn what the game we’re all playing really is.

Read Next