Words by Nicole Atieno The Blumarine Girl Goes West: In Conversation with David Koma on SS27 & UGG Fresh from his latest Milan Fashion Week show, David Koma is taking Blumarine into the sun for SS27. Inspired by the cinematic mythology of California, the collection explores the house’s romantic femininity through the lens of the ingénue, part bohemian bombshell, part surf girl, part glamorous starlet. Dusty pastels, sheer layers, feathers, boudoir dressing and playful surf references come together in a collection that feels both nostalgic and distinctly Koma. That Californian spirit also sets the scene for Blumarine’s new collaboration with UGG, where laid-back ease meets Italian glamour. Reimagining the UGG Enwrap Clog for the runway with silver metalwork, colourful cabochon stones and delicate ostrich feathers, Koma turns an everyday icon into something glamorous and unmistakably Blumarine. Following the show, we caught up with David to talk about the mood behind SS27, his muse, the pieces that define the collection and the unexpected chemistry between Blumarine and UGG. BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI Words by Nicole Atieno I wanted the woman to feel comfortable moving between something very delicate and something much more relaxed or sporty. Nicole Atieno: When you think about the SS27 collection as a whole, what kind of mood emerges from it? David Koma: There is a sense of lightness and romance, but also something very instinctive and sensual. I wanted to take the romanticism of Blumarine out of the darkness and into the California sun. Who is the Blumarine muse in SS27? Is she a different woman from previous seasons or are we seeing another side of the same woman? I see her as the same woman, but in a different light. This season she feels more carefree, more relaxed, with this Californian, surf-girl attitude. BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI A collection is also a portrait of its moment. What kind of confidence did you want to build into the clothes this season? A very natural confidence. I wanted the woman to feel comfortable moving between something very delicate and something much more relaxed or sporty. Is there one look in the collection that is key to understanding the whole season? The looks where lingerie and daywear become almost the same thing. The camisoles, robes, soft trousers and draped jersey really capture the idea of the collection for me. BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI Were there particular fabrics or textures that unlocked the collection for you? Definitely tulle, organza, georgette and plumetis. I also loved working with ostrich feathers and the different ways of creating a feeling of water and movement through sequins and ruching. How did the collaboration with UGG come about and are there any pieces from the collection you’re especially excited to see people wear? It felt very natural because of the Californian reference in the collection. I love the contrast between the ease of the UGG silhouette and the more delicate Blumarine details. I love the contrast between the ease of the UGG silhouette and the more delicate Blumarine details. BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI Was there a particular visual reference that kicked off the idea for this collaboration? The idea was really about California and the contrast between its relaxed attitude and the femininity of Blumarine. From there, the UGG silhouette became something we could completely transform. UGG has become such an iconic part of fashion culture, what does the brand represent to you personally and how did that influence the collection? For me, UGG represents a very instinctive kind of comfort and individuality. I liked bringing that attitude into Blumarine and making it feel more unexpected through embellishment and texture. For me, UGG represents a very instinctive kind of comfort and individuality. I liked bringing that attitude into Blumarine and making it feel more unexpected through embellishment and texture. BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI The palette of Blumarine usually moves between different intensities. What colours and combinations can we expect to see in this collection and how did you want them to change the atmosphere of the collection? There are dusty pastels, soft pinks, lavender, pale blue and natural tones. They make the collection feel sun-faded and light, almost as if the colours have been softened by the California landscape. Looking at SS27 alongside your previous Blumarine seasons, what feels deliberately continuous and what feels like a departure? The romanticism is still very much there, as are the femininity and the focus on the body. The departure is the lightness of it, the sporty and Californian elements bring a different energy. BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI BLUMARINE SS27 Runway Photo by IDI Blumarine has such a distinct visual vocabulary and history. How do you navigate the heritage of Blumarine while still making the clothes feel unmistakably yours? I look at the codes of the house, but I try to translate them through my own perspective. It’s about recognising what makes Blumarine Blumarine, and then finding a new way to express it. After seeing the collection come together, what do you hope stays with someone after the show? I hope they remember the feeling of it: something romantic, sensual and playful, but also very easy and instinctive. Credits CREATIVE DIRECTION David Koma Featuring UGG® Footwear STYLING Marc Goehring HAIR Claire Grech for Tecni.art L’Oréal Professionnel MAKE UP Patrick Glatthaar for Make Up For Ever MOVEMENT DIRECTION Ryan Chappell SOUNDTRACK Mode-FPRODUCTION Without Production RUNWAY IMAGES IDI Read Next “Every Word Is a Spell”: In Conversation with EARTHEATER on Childhood Dreams, Motherhood and the Rhythms of the Universe Seen by Fräulein #39 Taking Fun Seriously: In Conversation with MARIA MAGDALENA
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