Beyond Desire Have you ever looked at your body in the mirror and imagined it as something else – a shape, a form, a sculpture? As a child, Viviane Sassen did just that. She experimented with perspective, bending and twisting her body into unfamiliar forms. To her, the body was not a fixed entity but something fluid, something that could be reshaped and reimagined. Her distinctive way of viewing the human form is rooted in her childhood. Born in Denmark and raised in Kenya, she grew up near a home for children living with polio. Many of her friends and neighbors had bodies that did not conform to conventional beauty standards. Yet, in the innocent eyes of young Viviane, untouched by societal norms, they were simply a part of everyday life. That perspective remained with her, even when she later found herself in front of the camera as a model during her fashion studies. In a male-dominated industry, she was often told how to appear desirable and how to perform for the photographer’s gaze. But instead of adjusting to it, she turned to photography as a way to reclaim her own narrative. © Viviane Sassen, Self-portrait, from the series Self-portraits, date unknown Today, Viviane is one of the most celebrated photographers of her generation. Her work has been exhibited in museums around the world, and she has collaborated with major brands like Stella McCartney and Louis Vuitton. Bridging the gap between fashion and contemporary art, she treats the human form as an active, dynamic element. In series like Cadavre Exquis and Modern Alchemy, bodies are no longer objects of observation, positioned for voyeuristic consumption. Instead, they are layered, fragmented and transformed, dissolving into textures, shadows, and vibrant forms. This also becomes evident in her exhibition The Body as Scuplture at Fotografiska Berlin. For Fräulein, Viviane spoke with Marina Paulenka, Director of Exhibitions. HANNIBAL, from the series VENUS & MERCURY 2019 RX, from the series MODERN ALCHEMY, 2019 Marina Paulenka: Your work challenges the notion of the body as a fixed entity. How do you see the act of reshaping and reimagining the body as a form of artistic and personal liberation? Viviane Sassen: I try to blur the boundaries between reality and abstraction, and explore identity in a more fluid, poetic way. I’m really drawn to the idea of ambiguity and transformation. By re-imagining the body in all its varieties, these visual manipulations become a metaphor for freedom – liberating both subject and viewer from fixed notions of identity, beauty and form. MP: Assemblage plays a key role in your process, particularly in Cadavre Exquis and Modern Alchemy. How does fragmenting and reconfiguring the human form alter our perception of identity and corporeality? VS: Yes, I think these bodies of work are more challenging for the viewer than some of my other work as they distort, fragment and obscure the human body in a profound way. They bring us to the realm of the subconscious, the dream world, where things are fluid and have their own logic. Surrealism has always played a major part in my work. MP: Sculpture often implies permanence, yet your approach to the body is fluid and ever-changing. How do you reconcile these seemingly opposing ideas in your work? VS: The concept of photography is, in itself, very dualistic: It freezes time in space. Duality, the paradox, ambiguity – these are the key elements I thrive on. I think you could draw parallels between sculpture and photography – both mediums capture matter – I’m just more lazy and impatient than the average sculptor. “Photography was always a magical medium in my eyes, one that connects the visible world with the magical realm of dreams, thoughts, feelings, but also concepts like time, space, death, the universe.” MP: Your work encourages viewers to see bodies not as passive subjects but as dynamic elements of composition. How do you hope this shift in perspective affects how people view their own bodies? VS: I don’t think I really have the ability to make people change their minds about their body. But in the most positive scenario, then yes, maybe people will realize that their body is a dynamic sculpture as well. MP: Your early experiences in Kenya exposed you to a diverse range of physical forms that defied Western beauty standards. How has this shaped your rejection of rigid body ideals in your artistic practice? VS: I strongly believe in diversity and the beauty of it, when it comes to the human body. However, I also experience that the mainstream fashion industry is still pretty rigid when it comes to beauty standards. I also think that most of us are wise enough to understand that the fashion world is selling dreams and fairytales. When working on my art projects, I feel I’m much more free to explore a wider range of possibilities. I think I’ve been intrigued by the body from a very young age. I spent some of my most formative years in Kenya, where my father worked as a doctor in a small local hospital. This was in the mid-seventies, and things were much less advanced than they are now. Sickness and death were much more visible, out in the open. Decay goes much quicker in the tropics, a banana peel would rot and decay in a matter of days instead of years. Another thing that made a big impact on me at that time in Kenya was that we lived next door to a home for children who suffered from polio. At the time, I was too young to understand the serious condition my friends were in. I thought the shapes of their bodies were maybe a bit out of the ordinary, but definitely beautiful. “I strongly believe in diversity and the beauty of it, when it comes to the human body.” Eudocimus Ruber, from the series Of Mud and Lotus, 2017 HCG, from the series Of Mud and Lotus, 2017 EARLY SELF PORTRAITS, 2004 Desire, Sexuality, and the Gaze MP: You have spoken about reclaiming the gaze through self-portraiture as a response to the male-dominated fashion industry. How has your understanding of desire evolved through this process? VS: I think desire has always been linked to disguise in my mind. It is crucial to both hide and reveal to trigger desire – there should be some mystery. You can see in my work that when an image is more sexual, erotic, you usually won’t see a face. MP: You describe your work as creating a kind of sexuality that “defies the male gaze” – fractured, discontinuous, and self-determined. Can desire exist outside of external projections, and how do you express that in your imagery? VS: I’m not sure we can go completely without some sort of external projections when it comes to desire, maybe in a kind of ancient sensory and instinctual way – how we were as infants? We are very much conditioned by language, meaning, images and symbols. But I do think that when it comes to desire, many women speak a different language than men. I guess many of us need more context. It can still be carnal, explicit, but our largest sexual organ is the brain rather than what’s between our legs. Yes, I’m brutally exaggerating here! “I think desire has always been linked to disguise in my mind. It is crucial to both hide and reveal to trigger desire – there should be some mystery.” MP: Of Mud and Lotus engages with transformation, fecundity, and the traditionally “feminine.” How do you navigate the intersection of the organic and the erotic in this work? VS: Well, this body of work was informed by motherhood. I had become a mother myself not long before. A huge bodily transformation you just have to give in to, let it all happen. Nature at its finest, it was just so incredible to experience… both the good, the bad and the ugly. This series was about surrender; I had to surrender my own body – there was not much space left for analytical thought. The project I did before Of Mud and Lotus, was UMBRA. That was about the notion of the shadow, questions about death, grief, philosophy, my father who passed away. It was rather masculine and abstract. Then, after becoming a mother, I felt a kind of rebirth in myself as well, a newly gained freedom, creativity, playfulness. So it all became about living matter, organic structures, infused with more humor and experimentation. Out of this body of work, the other series, Cadavre Exquis and Modern Alchemy were born. There’s a kind of energetic life force, EROS, that grew into this work. MP: Desire is often shaped by cultural and societal narratives. Through surrealist abstraction, your work resists these imposed structures. Do you see abstraction as a means to liberate desire from these constraints? VS: That’s a great way of looking at my work, I like that! Cadavre Exquis #7, from the series Cadavre Exquis, 2020 FOLIO (1994-1996) Self-portrait, from the series Self-portraits, ca. 1994 Marte #02, from the series Larvae, 2014 Photography, Sculpture and Surrealism MP: Your approach aligns with surrealist principles, where reality is a language to be deciphered rather than a transparent reflection. What visual language do you see emerging from your transformation of bodies into sculptural realities? VS: Hard question. I’m not great at describing my visual language with words. I feel that many of my pictures show the outside of inner transformation and process. The very private, inner world shines through on the outside. We can see it, but it is also trying to hide as it is so vulnerable. MP: Your collages blur the boundaries between photography and sculpture, object and subject. How does this interplay challenge the traditional role of photography as a medium of documentation? VS: I’ve never thought of photography as a way to just document the visible, or to transport an objective view. It was always a magical medium in my eyes, one that connects the visible world with the magical realm of dreams, thoughts, feelings, but also concepts like time, space, death, the universe. MP: In your large-scale assemblages, everyday objects such as water containers, ropes and plants become integral to the human form. What role does materiality play in shaping the narrative of your images? VS: I’ve always been drawn to the idea of objects as symbols, animism, mythology. Ordinary objects can become meaningful or receive new meaning in a new context. When stripped from their usual function, they become new sculptural entities, and suddenly we look at them with fresh eyes – a milk bottle can become an extension of a body, and suddenly there it is: it transformed into an arm. It’s our brain that will always seek for the human. “I do think that when it comes to desire, many women speak a different language than men.” MP: By deconstructing and reconstructing the body, your work resists voyeuristic consumption. Do you think photography inherently carries voyeuristic tendencies, and how do you subvert them? VS: Oh, I would guess so… and I relate to that, although voyeurism implies a kind of secrecy, while I try to look at the world with the eyes of a child: in wonder, always curious, eager to learn, non-judgmental. MP: The title of your exhibition at Fotografiska Berlin, The Body as Scuplture, suggests that the body is not merely an object to be observed but an entity to be shaped. How do you envision this concept extending beyond the exhibition into everyday life and self-perception? VS: Keep on moving! Juno, from the series series Modern Alchemy, 2022 Sirin, from the series Modern Alchemy, 2022 FOLIO (1994-1996) Self-portrait, from the series Self-portraits, ca. 1994 Bron, from the series Venus & Mercury, 2019 Credits Interview by Marina Paulenka, Images courtesy of Viviane Sassen Read Next Crossing Cultures, Creating Sounds: ELODIE GERVAISE in Focus JIL SANDER presents “WANDERLUST” in Hamburg: A Prelude in Sound by Simone Bellotti Gucci Portrait Series: A Collective Expression of Identity in the F/W 2025 Campaign