Berlin Fashion Week SS27: The Collections That Stayed With Us

UNVAIN

For Spring Summer 2027, UNVAIN picked up exactly where its Berlin Fashion Week debut left off. Skins expanded the label’s exploration of identity through clothing, treating garments as both armour and performance. Leather, faux fur, and sheer fabrics remained central, while sharply tailored silhouettes balanced protection with exposure. Rather than presenting anonymous models, designer Robert Friedrichs assigned every look a fictional character, introducing guests to personalities through short one-line descriptions ranging from “rich parents, poor morals” to “self-doubt? unfamiliar.” The result was a collection that felt less like a runway and more like stepping into a cast of carefully constructed archetypes.

Milk of Lime

With Ashes, Milk of Lime continued to refine the quiet tension that has become synonymous with the label. The collection revolved around opposing ideas: destruction and renewal, fragility and resilience, darkness and romance. Draped menswear, distressed silk knitwear and wrinkled surfaces were paired with graphic prints across cotton, wool and transparent silk, creating garments that revealed new details the longer they were observed. Rather than offering clear answers, the collection invited viewers to embrace contradiction, allowing softness and severity to exist within the same silhouette.

Laura Gerte

Laura Gerte transformed the upstairs foyer of the Berliner Ensemble into a dreamscape drenched in red light. Inspired by Mina Loy’s Feminist Manifesto, Lost to Virtue dismantled traditional ideas of feminine virtue through garments that resisted conventional construction. Hand-dyed vintage silk scarves were manipulated into sculptural silhouettes, while pleated fabrics floated around the body with effortless movement. Throughout the collection, draping continuously shifted between revealing and concealing the figure, creating silhouettes that felt deliberately unresolved. It was less about perfection than about allowing femininity to exist in all its contradictions.

SF1OG

Presented inside a sports hall hidden within one of architect Hinrich Baller’s residential buildings, SF1OG’s latest collection unfolded like a ritual rather than a fashion show. Inspired by Luca Guadagnino’s Suspiria, the collection explored the uneasy relationship between power and obedience, suggesting that authority often hides beneath familiar institutions and traditions. Velvet, satin, leather and transparent fabrics continuously shifted between delicacy and control, while a live musical performance referencing Seville’s Easter processions heightened the almost ceremonial atmosphere. Fashion became a vehicle for storytelling, where every material choice contributed to an underlying sense of ambiguity.

Clara Colette Miramon

Humidity became the defining metaphor of Clara Colette Miramon’s Spring Summer 2027 collection. Rather than approaching it as weather, Humid explored moisture as a state of transformation, where beauty and decay exist simultaneously. Inspired by tropical landscapes and a journey through Thailand, transparent corsets preserving pressed flowers sat alongside lace-covered sweatsuits, floral chiffon dresses and denim constructed through thong-like panelling. Elephant prints appeared throughout the collection, extending onto the designer’s first footwear line, while the immersive set filled with condensation and lush vegetation blurred the boundary between installation and runway.

DAGGER

DAGGER, part of Reference Studio’s INTERVENTION line-up, returned to the seaside town of designer Luke Rainey’s youth, continuing the story introduced last season. This time, the focus shifted towards the awkward optimism of growing up, following familiar characters through first jobs, first cigarettes, first kisses and first heartbreaks. The collection captured the atmosphere of late-night beach parties and the quiet freedom of the morning after, where the traditional “walk of shame” became a walk of liberation instead. Sashes reading Miss Understood 2027 and Miss Spent Youth 2027 added moments of humor while reinforcing the collection’s coming-of-age narrative.

GmbH

GmbH closed Berlin Fashion Week by looking backwards rather than forwards. Celebrating the label’s 10th anniversary, Desire Paths revisited Berlin’s forgotten couture history, drawing on archival garments from Julia Schwarz’s extensive collection alongside references to designers whose legacies were erased during the Nazi regime. Sharply tailored jackets and formal silhouettes appeared alongside the sportswear and clubwear signatures that have long defined the label. Rather than treating history as nostalgia, the collection suggested that Berlin’s fashion past remains unfinished, offering a powerful reminder that fashion is inseparable from politics, memory and cultural identity.

Shayne Oliver

Rather than presenting a traditional runway show, Shayne Oliver transformed Schinkel Pavillon into an evolving archive. MUSEUM + EBAY ARCHETYPES, presented by P100, unfolded across two floors, bringing together garments from Oliver’s personal archive with deadstock textiles to explore how fashion accumulates meaning over time. Rather than treating clothing as static objects, the installation positioned garments as living artefacts shaped by memory, circulation, and changing notions of value.

Running alongside the exhibition, eBay Archetypes extended that idea beyond the gallery, allowing selected pieces to re-enter circulation through an evolving online archive. In a week dominated by runway presentations, Oliver offered something different: a reminder that fashion’s future is not only created through new collections, but also through the histories garments continue to carry.