Couture weeks are always a beautiful and exciting time of the year; a precious time when creativity and craftsmanship are revealed, at its most opulent.
While scrutinizing the Spring 2021 collections of Haute Couture houses, my eyes were instantly caught by Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli:
The collection opens with a black gown composed of a leather-molded six-pack bustier, and a tube skirt ornamented by a massive satin bow in Schiaparelli’s signature shocking pink. The tone is already set, after the very first look. The campiness simply serves as facade for a deeper meaning: the top, overtly masculine, but then that old-Hollywood styled skirt, reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe’s dress in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, embraces the hyper-femme. Roseberry gathers clichés of both feminine and masculine objectification in the collection of the emblematic Schiaparelli House, known for its surrealistic approach to fashion, first set by the founder Elsa Schiaparelli herself in 1931.
The high craftsmanship of couture has no limits and the works of art presented by Schiaparelli is continuous from head -and headpieces- to toe, literally. The accessories are as flamboyant and blingy as the fashion, yet remain chic and tasteful. The theme of surrealism is present and it brings a rather disturbing edge to the collection with golden teeth embroided on the necklines of cocktail dresses, and worn as itself on XXL pendent earrings. The Tooth bracelet from Schiaparelli in F/W 2020 is one of our favorite accessories, and we love to see a new reiteration of it. Overall, the collection is full of trompe l’oeil and hidden gems. Luxury is found in the details.
The very elegant and simple color choices outline the designs in shades of black, gold and mother of pearl, with touches of that signature pink popping up throughout. The dramatic volumes of collars and sleeves mingle alongside beautifully draped pieces, bringing a more classical couture note to the collection, while the diversity of small details keeps the collection interesting and entertaining throughout. Coats feature locks on their pockets to keep the Schiaparelli woman’s secrets safe, while a Madonna column dress with aureoles comes with a breastfed golden baby. Chic!
The influences of Elsa Schiaparelli’s work are discernible, reworked in a modern way. While some brands choose to rely on house heritage and DNA, Daniel Roseberry chooses to create garments infused with historical references without compromising their modernity.
Whether it’s Lady Gaga at President Joe Biden’s inauguration, or it’s Kim Kardashian’s infamous Christmas look, Schiaparelli has been everywhere recently (surprisingly enough, with red carpets closed), and I already looking forward to seeing more of Roseberry’s pieces in the flesh.