Words by Victoria Nussbaum

Fräulein Talents: Lina Nix

Lina Nix is among Berlin’s most compelling emerging fashion designers. Her AW25 debut collection, WHO WEARS THE PANTS, explored the power structures traditionally embedded in menswear by isolating and radically enlarging details commonly perceived as minor - such as buttons - and repositioning them on the female body. The collection marked her breakthrough, gaining strong resonance with stylists and fashion media. We spoke with Lina about her new SS26 collection TUBEWEAR, the realities of creating a collection independently, and the ways in which her surroundings continue to shape her work.

Look Lina Nix SS26, Gloves and Tights Stylist's own, Shoes Derber's

When did you start becoming interested in fashion, and how did you end up studying it?

For a long time, fashion was something very unconscious and intuitive for me, especially during my childhood and teenage years. For example, there was a phase when I only wore red, I have no idea why.
My earliest memory related to fashion goes back to my childhood, when my brother and I often dressed up in my mother’s crazy, oversized clothes. My real interest in actually making fashion only came later, through craftsmanship, which has always fascinated me deeply.

How can one imagine the development of a collection for you? How do your ideas come about, and how much time goes into this process, considering that as a young designer you do everything yourself?

Yes, so far I do everything myself, which can be quite overwhelming at times. That’s why I’m always happy when I see stylists further working with my pieces and reinterpreting them in new ways.
Most of my time goes into the design process. Even though sewing is time-consuming, I spend a lot of time planning exactly what the samples should look like. Since I’ve been working a lot with form and material so far, a big part of the process has been about aligning the silhouettes with each other and with the collection as a whole.

Body Lina Nix AW25, Tights Stylist's own

Jacket Lina Nix AW25

Where do you find inspiration? Are there specific brands, designers, films, or other cultural influences that shape you in particular?

I draw inspiration from everything that surrounds me. Berlin, the city where I was born, naturally plays an important role. On the streets here, you see many eccentric people who dress very intuitively. I think this has encouraged me to give my own ideas free rein and not be afraid of creating designs that might seem unflattering at first glance.

Look Lina Nix SS26, Gloves Stylist's own

Your clothing appears both powerful and playful, especially in terms of proportions. What ideas about fashion or femininity are you trying to express through your work?

With my new collection “Tubewear”, I conducted a kind of small study. I wanted to explore to what extent the female body can be modified in a way that appears elegant and feminine without revealing skin in the usual places or emphasizing specific body parts. I deliberately chose shapes and cuts that sometimes even make the body look unflattering. Still, I feel that the silhouettes have a special, almost stubborn elegance in which I recognize myself and which expresses my experience of womanhood outwardly.

What does Berlin offer you as a city in terms of fashion? And which other city could you imagine working in?

At the moment, Berlin is very advantageous for me because it provides the space and the financial possibility to do what I’m doing. Fashion-wise, I feel that I don’t fully fit in here. Nevertheless, I have a strong connection to the city. I’m not yet sure where I’ll go next, but I think Paris would definitely be a first step.

Body Maison Martin Margiela x H&M, Skirt Lina Nix AW25

Body Lina Nix AW25, Tights Stylist's own, Shoes Victoria Beckham

Could you imagine offering some of your pieces for sale in the near future, or is that not something you’re planning right now?

Yes, for my bachelor’s project I’m planning to design the collection in a way that allows parts of it to be produced. Until now, that hasn’t been possible.

Looking into the future: after finishing your studies, would you first work for another brand, or would you be interested in continuing directly with your own label Lina Nix?

I can definitely imagine working for another label first. I think it’s very important to gain insight there, because running your own label is still quite abstract to me and also a bit intimidating, simply because I haven’t yet experienced all areas of the industry.

Dress Lina Nix SS26, Tights and Leg Sleeves Stylist's own, Shoes Alfonso Garlando

Body Lanvin, Skirt Lina Nix AW25, Tights Stylist's own, Shoes Miu Miu

Credits