Baby balaclavas and bare-all lace dresses took the wheel at the London-based designer’s latest show.
Balaclavas seem to be having a major moment in fashion right now, and at Yuhan Wang’s Spring Summer 2023 collection, they showed no sign of disappearing.
For the London-based designer’s latest collection, lacy balaclavas and a profusion of hats, permeated the show: from helmets, to floppy hats and parachute bags, each of which were repurposed through fabrics including brocade jacquards, silk organzas and buttery leathers.
Indeed, the theme of Wang’s Spring Summer 2023 collection was flying. Titled “Beyond the Horizon,” the Central Saint Martins’ alum drew inspiration from the ancient female spirits of Apsaras – a figure from Asian culture known to roam the clouds, and drawing on four prolific female pilots (Lee Ya-Ching, Hazel Ying Lee and Amelia Earhart). Further, Wang’s latest offering is one which celebrates the undermined bravery and strength inherent in the history of female aviators.
“In Asian culture, we have beautiful and supernatural flying Apsaras and ethereal beings that inhabit the skies,” explains Wang. “They are mainly depicted as female spirits but in real life, we lose sight of the sparks of female aviators who displayed remarkable talent and bravery. I really want to make a collection to celebrate women’s independence, persistence, courage and coolness under pressure, especially under the tense international situation. Female aviators in history, from different cultural backgrounds, really opened wider and brighter doors for women of the future. I’m trying to create a collection that celebrates the persistence and courage of women as well as highlighting the pressures they face. The bravery of these women has inspired generations.”
Wang’s notable floral motifs continued to permeate throughout her collection, their hand-drawn and laced detailing etched on waterproof nylon to reimagine new aviator uniforms.
A leather bag serves as a tribute to Amelia Earhart, which reimagines her red airplane, comprising a functioning rotatable propeller. Olives branches and doves were repurposed into earrings and necklaces – symbols of peace and unity.
Clinging dresses made from pastel laces and floral jacquards and organzas were aplenty in this season, each of which were finished in a dreamy palette of baby blues, whites, lime greens, pale lilacs and yellows.
Knee-high stockings took the centre stage, their cladding in various materials of lace and colourful hues and Wang’s signature florals – which, paired with laced-up kitten heels, respectively – married a girly innocence with unapologetic sexiness.
“We tend to lose sight of female pilots, and its only male aviators who are seen in this profession. These women helped topple the negative stereotypes of women being incapable,” Wang continues. “Their spirits and desire for love and peace should be carried on, and spread forever.”
