Lost in a Mirage: Saint Laurent’s Summer ’21 Collection by Anthony Vaccarello

vor 4 years

Dear readers, you are invited to wear sunscreen and your best pair of sunglasses to watch this enlightening show. The Summer 2021 collection of Saint Laurent was recently released and mixed amazing fashion and an exclusive location – as always.

 

In the great Saint Laurent tradition, the show opened with a revisiting of the suit, women in suits is a fashion statement from the French house since Yves Saint Laurent himself is said to be the one who gave women power in their way to dress. The house was also the first brand to dare to play with transparency, unveiling the women’s body in an elegant yet provocative way.

Known for designing seductive garments, Anthony Vaccarello once again dressed – and undressed – the models under the warming sun of a desert. The metaphors of this desert landscape mean a longing to escape and to take a break from the craziness of the world and contemplating what is truly essential for our everyday wear. The essence of Saint Laurent is gracefully dripped from the top of a dune along the walk of the rebellious looking models.

The fashion is black, neutral, underlined by illuminating jewelry pieces. Bourgeoise jersey knits from the 60’s were brought back from the archives to be paired with cyclist shorts, and silk blouses were worn with nothing more than lace underwear. Next summer promises to be hot, the length of the shorts are shrinking to a point where we don’t need to wear short anymore. Lingerie used as a garment or frugally exhibit under a deconstructed suit will be the next go-to look. Watching those sweating bodies in motion from the top of a dune keeps us dreaming during the long Berlin winter.

Anthony Vaccarello used the desert imagery as a place to think, a place to stop the race of time, and as well as an occasion to pay homage to Mr Saint Laurents Moroccan roots and the Saharan traditions. It came as no surprise to see a Saharan jacket appearing from the darkness of the nightfall thanks to the light of the flames during the finale. The iconic pieces from the Maison were modernized in a black version adorn with gold lacing, very Betty Catroux.

Text by Marien Brandon
All images and video courtesy of Saint Laurent

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